Hey Sista, call me Balkanista! The journey of thousand miles across Balkans.
Bosnia and Herzegovina.
What do you imagine hearing “Balkans”?
Some would say it’s a poor region in Southeast Europe and doubt on safety, others would also mention “the bloody war” happened in ex-Yugoslavia. But is it all true and should such things be the main ones to describe this place?
Not at all.
I knew there's so much more than Google questions about safety, politics, and economy states to pay attention to. Furthermore, what I imagined thinking about Balkans in the first place, was some sort of mystery hidden there in the mountains and seashores. And I wanted to reveal it.
I’ve already been to the coast of Montenegro and Slovenian cities with its famous nature spots like Bled and mountain resort Kranjska Gora. Two ex-Yugoslavian countries still, I didn’t have immersion in Balkan reality. In the first case, it was too much about the perfect summer vacation while in the second, I perceived the places more like the classic European destinations.
This time, my trip has started spontaneously, as well as the choice of the first destination—it was based on the cheap flights' offers.
First, I took a flight from Kyiv to Budapest, the hub of lowcost airlines as well as a really great city to spend a day or two even if you’ve already visited it before.
Checked in the classic Budapestian attraction thermal baths, my next task was to determine the following destination and it became Sarajevo.
Sarajevo | Strong
I was very excited when the plane landed at the airport in the new to me country with such a beautiful name—Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The landscapes I saw from the plane were gorgeous hills and some settlements in between. The sun was shining brightly and when I went out of the airport I didn’t need to wear a coat anymore. In the middle of October, it was comfortable feels-like +20°C during the day.
I was chatting with my friend who had traveled through the Balkans before and when it comes to Sarajevo he mentioned “Strong emotions!”. I couldn’t really understand what he was talking about before I saw it with my eyes.
During my first walk in the city center, I saw the buildings with bullet holes. The signs of the awful time, still there, remind of the tragedy. The special red sign on the asphalt marks the places where a lot of people were killed. You notice it at least several times. The cemeteries with ‘94-year dates.
I wasn’t ready to see this and it hurt me. I started learning the history of that time trying to understand how it all has started.
As a result, it leads me to learn more and more about Yugoslavia. Can it be compared to USSR or was it different? I wasn’t sure it’s appropriate to ask locals about this but some conversations happened and my picture was expanding.
Meeting of Cultures
The remain signs of dreadful times are not what should represent Sarajevo in the first place. The most unique detail is definitely the different cultures that meet in one city. You see the mosques and hear the call to prayer, and next, there are the streets with Austro-Hungarian buildings. Even more, the various cultures can be observed right on one street.
Besides these two key elements—Muslim traditions and European culture, another fundamental direction is the monumental, concrete architecture from Yugoslavia times. Some would say there’s nothing special about it. In fact, I also thought the same way for a long time as it’s too familiar to me. I’ve seen a lot of similar things in Ukrainian cities. But then, I started to look at it from a different angle.
Certainly, the time doesn’t make these buildings more appealing and you need to be able to filter the surrounding reality—the inappropriate signs and billboards on them. But if you do achieve the clarity of vision, you may notice or guess what were the ideas of the creators, giving hommage it was designed back in '60s-'70s.
One more key element
Even though I’m an architectural geek I have to admit there are other details to pay attention to while you’re in Sarajevo—people.
I was lucky to stay in a place not only with an incredible city panorama but with great hosts as well. So welcoming, friendly, and open-hearted that I felt I was staying at my really close relatives. Even at times we had some language barrier we understood each other. The talks were warm and honest, such sincerity is close to me.
Traveling different places and observing other approaches sometimes I keep asking myself whether it’s better to be more discreet and “do not open your soul to others”? Maybe it is but my nature is still closer to Balkan's sincerity.
One place that should be saved in your bucket list to visit is Franz & Sophie tea shop and cafe. First, the name—a tribute to Franz Ferdinand and his wife, you know their names, unfortunately, are connected to this city. Next, the quality—the owner is a tea sommelier and you will be offered to try several tastes of tea. The little tea ceremony is coming after. The atmosphere—classic music and a lovely friendly dog around. I’ve spent several hours there enjoying tea and working at the same time and once again realized the magic of classical music and how it enriches you.
The visit to this place makes me think not only about the fact that quality tea is a wonderful product. It makes me think that working to reach the best qualifications in your field you can gain outstanding results. I’m sure someone could doubt the success of having a tea shop nowadays, whether it’s the right place right time. But this cafe proves the high quality of service and attention to the customer will make it popular and demanded among locals and travelers.
Actually, it was my last spot before I jumped on the train to go to the main train station. It was the moment when I realized I have seen so little in this city and it would be great to visit it once again. It would feel familiar to me and at the same time still full of undiscovered places.
Show me your most scenic railway road, Darling!
Excited, I was sitting on the train constantly turning the head to the left and to the right not to miss that awesome views of the mountains, bridges, and cliffs next to you. Little did I know I choose the wrong time—5 p.m. when the sun already comes to the horizon.
That’s why when the train was finally riding through those places, I saw complete darkness in the window. Disappointment or, following the rule the glass is half full, I should simply plan another trip to Bosnia, preferably during summer so that darkness won’t be an issue.
Several words about Mostar
If you google Bosnia and go to Images chapter, the first ones will show you exactly the same picture as on my sketch above—Stari Most in Mostar, “old bridge” literally. Not only unique in its view it became a symbol of reconciliation and peaceful coexistence of diverse communities after destruction during the war and reconstruction years after.
Mostar is a small city that most of the tourists probably visit for 1 day. I can’t say I saw much more even though I stayed for several days. But I’ve noticed the beautiful alleys full of huge sycamore trees. And also pomegranates here and there—for a girl living in an industrial city in the different climate zone that’s a shockingly amazing picture.
The Conclusions—is it worth visiting once again?
Bosnia showed me a sneak peek of its beauty. I haven’t visited national parks nor waterfalls. The reason—you have to rent a car to get there as there’s no infrastructure connecting the distant spots. Sutjeska National Park, Blagaj, and Kravice Waterfall are the most famous. Also, there are Spomeniki—huge monuments built in Yugoslavia times that showcase socialist-era futurism. Definitely on the list.
Bosnia is extremely unusual thanks to a diverse culture and religion.
Bosnia may not be an experienced tourist-oriented country but that makes it honest and real. I’ve heard suggestions not to rely on schedule but in my case, I didn’t have problems with that.
Any pitfalls? Well, you should be ready that many people love to smoke there, it looks like it’s part of a culture. The same thing I explored in Serbia, it’s hard to say who won first place in this competition.
Another thing is the national cuisine—vegetarians, be ready to eat…only the pita sirnica (cheese pies) or sweet pies. They’re awesome indeed and I guess I ate them more than I should. Vegan guys, I don’t know what to suggest to you, grab your daily ration in your carry-on backpack. The national cuisine is very much about meat.
These make my stay difficult in some way but at the same time, I tried to accept it as a fact and a tradition of the nation.
But what you can enjoy is coffee prepared in cezve—you won’t see it in the third-wave coffee shop next to you.
My travel continued to visit the next new country—Croatia. Passed the borders, got some new stamps in my passport the following views included wonderful seashore. And the next story is coming.
To be continued.
